Chef Susur Lee: The Power Of Food And Culture
Original article published on Behind the Plate with Kenzie Osborne
Which came first — food, or culture? Every bite of food tells a unique story about a particular culture. Yet, every culture expresses itself and its beliefs through food. Food is a medium to express who you are, and provide an opportunity for someone to step into your world for just a second. Chef Susur Lee is one of my greatest role models in the food industry — particularly within the realm of fusion cuisine. For a while, I was wondering why his food was so impressive and intriguing to learn about… But, it’s simple… Rather than serving mismatched combinations and desperately trying to make something spectacular, he’s simply focussed on providing an authentic experience and serving the flavours that are dear to his heart.
Passion Is Flavour
Upcoming chefs can sometimes become lost in trying to make something visually stunning by using exotic techniques and molecular science. Although these interpretations can be interesting, the flavours and experience simply isn’t the same as a dish prepared with the utmost love and care. A dish shines its brightest when there’s a story behind it. The intention, the love, and the passion are all critical ingredients to creating that perfect WOW moment.
Chef Susur Lee: The Story Behind His Plate
Chef Susur Lee grew up in a family that valued food and dining together. His fondest memories are of spending time with his father at the table, enjoying plates of dim sum at night, and strolling through the food markets in Hong Kong. Everything from the smell of Hong Kong food markets to the taste of dim sum reminds him of his childhood. Food has always been an initiator of conversation and memories. Without it, life simply wouldn’t have been the same.
“I try to make new memories with my wife and kids through food. Food is such a big part of our life. When my kids lived in Toronto (now, two of them are in LA), we would get together a couple of times per week for a feat. We just sat there, ate, and talked for hours. Honestly, any excuse to have a nice, big family dinner — I’m there!”
The Power Of Dim Sum
Chef Susur Lee was introduced to the wonders of food at a young age. As he built bonds with his family around the table, his love and passion for food continued to grow. His interest in food was initiated by the delicacy and creativity of traditional Chinese dim sum. Not only was the dim sum crafted with such intent and care, but it was also a beautiful reflection of his Chinese heritage.
“Eating dim sum with my father was definitely a moment that turned me onto food. It was so delicate, creative, and packed with flavour. It was also something that was distinctly Chinese — which is a culture that I’m so proud to be a part of.”
Chef Susur Lee had found his identity within the art of food. Creating food was a way to share his culture with others, and express his feelings through flavours that were near and dear to his heart.
Starting With The Dishes…
Like many chefs, Chef Susur Lee certainly wasn’t an instant “master chef” or “wizard of flavour”… Rather, he began his culinary journey as a dishwasher (without intent of ever pursuing a career in the culinary field).
“When I was a bit older, I got my first job as a dishwasher. I kind-of fell into the kitchen by accident… But once I did, I really fell in love.”
The moment Chef Susur Lee stepped into the kitchen, his eyes lit up and his heart began to race. The atmosphere, culture, and energy of the kitchen was intoxicating and invigorating. It was a place of love and passion. He could finally express himself, and there were no limits as to what he could create for his guests. Little to say, Chef Susur Lee was instantly hooked — and ever since, he has never looked back.
Bringing Cantonese Culture To The Heart Of Toronto
Although Chef Susur Lee finds himself in Toronto today, his passion for his Cantonese culture will never leave. With each dish, Chef Lee discovers a new layer to his heritage — and he falls deeper in love with his roots.
“Cantonese food culture is ancient and has so many traditions. I could never even scratch the surface of all the layers. As with many Asian cultures, Cantonese people are very specific in the way they do things and it’s very unique to themselves and their history. It’s very different in Canada because, in comparison, Canada is a very young country. Canada is also very multicultural, which gives me the opportunity to meet new people and learn about their unique food traditions.”
Tasting The Cultures Of Toronto
Food is a way for Chef Susur Lee to connect back to his heritage, and to introduce his community to a new culture they may not know about. And, in turn, food has also become a way for him to become exposed to new cultures that he may have never experienced otherwise.
Toronto is an incredible hub for learning about new cultures and traditions. But, of course, the best way to expose yourselves to the versatility of the world is through travelling to various cultures and experiencing them first-hand. When you travel to a new part of the world, your eyes open to new possibilities, different perspectives, and creative ways of thinking. The more you know, the more creative you can be — and the greater inspiration you can find to make something truly special.
“When I travel I try to experience a bit of everything — the history, traditions, art and, definitely, the food. I’ve met locals who have shared traditions and cooking techniques that have been passed down through many generations. I’ve been invited to their personal dining rooms and have met their families. On the other hand, I’ve also been privileged enough to dine at some of the world’s best restaurants. The ability to eat around the world brings me inspiration to take home and play with in my own kitchen. As a Chinese Chef who’s classically trained in French cuisine, fusion is my wheelhouse. Over the years, it’s developed from French & Chinese Fusion to a global fusion blending inspiration from everyone I’ve met and everywhere I’ve visited.”
Learn, Grow, Nourish, And Fuel
Chef Susur Lee is always seeking knowledge as he continues along his culinary journey. The beauty of food is that there are no limits — and there’s no end to the breadth of knowledge you can gain. Cooking is truly a never-ending journey, and it’s one that can benefit a person’s life in so many ways.
“Cooking is a never-ending learning journey. I’m always learning new things. Having the ability to feed myself and the ones I love is nourishing to my mental and physical health. On a very basic level, food nourishes us. It feeds our bodies with the fuel we need. This is why I’m conscious of the food I put into my body. I think of my body as a machine that needs the proper fuel to perform at it’s best.”
Food is far more than what is on the plate… In fact, I don’t think Chef Susur Lee mentioned a particular ingredient or specific technique in our entire interview… Rather, the focus was on the experience — the culture, the artistry, the emotion, and the memories that are tied to each and every dish he’s prepared and tasted. Food is a way to connect with others, to discover a new part of the world, to nourish your body, to display emotion, and to expose others to your unique culture.
“Food is what connects all of us. It’s something that everyone needs and everyone has a personal relationship with. It crosses through generations, borders, and cultures… But it’s still somehow relatable no matter where you’re from or what language you speak.”
Thank You!
Chef Susur lee continues to share his love and knowledge through each dish he creates. Thank you so much to Chef Lee for spending the time to share your story, and explain the meaning behind your food. As a culinary graduate myself, I have been so inspired by your work — and after speaking with you, I am even more in AWH of your creations.
If you’re interested in learning more, head on over to instagram and follow Chef Lee HERE and Chef Lee’s restaurants HERE.
Before I let Chef Susur Lee get back to creating yet another fusion masterpiece — I had to ask a few of my favourite quickfire questions…
Quickfire Questions With Chef Susur Lee!
What Is The Best Dish You’ve Ever Tasted? And, Why Was It So Special?
“I had a braised & fried lamb rib dish in the Sichuan province once. It was so memorable just because it was an unlikely cut done in an interesting way. I also love Sichuan food because it’s so unique to their region. The spices and flavours are out of this world.”
What Is Your Favourite Cantonese Tradition?
“One of my favourite traditions in my culture is Chinese New Year. It’s such a celebratory time of year and lasts multiple weeks. There are festivals of lion dances & fire crackers to scare away the bad spirits and lots of feasts. Food itself is celebratory in Chinese Culture, it represents getting together with family & friends. We prepare auspicious dishes to bring in the new year, like desert moss & braised oysters which represent good fortune and prosperity. We also share red envelopes of money at this time of year bringing you good luck in the year to come!”
What Is Your Favourite Dish To Eat?
“Anything Cantonese!”
What Is Your Favourite Type Of Dish To Cook?
“Healthy & simple is best… I love a good bowl of noodles in broth.”
What Are Three Ingredients You Cannot Live Without?
“Garlic, ginger & soya sauce”
What Is One Word To Describe What Food Means To You?
Sensational.
Craving More?
Check out my interview with Velle (of @socialdelicious) to grab a taste of Lao food and culture!
